
I found out about the Hillhead Bookclub when I saw their ‘Veggies are people too’ ad in the subway. This may seem like an obvious statement, but not everyone agrees with them. When they set up a ‘vegetarians’ sign with an arrow pointing to the Bookclub on Byres Road, someone moved it next to a bin. Their message was clear – vegetarians are rubbish.

I was excited to try this new veggie-friendly pub/restaurant, but I had second thoughts when I looked at their website, which is full of bizarre drawings of people with animal heads. The introduction to the site’s food section says, ‘the kitchen at the bookclub is now fully up & running following an unfortunate incident with the kitchen porter, a bottle of pampero rum & a travelling group of icelandic go-go girls’. It all seemed a bit too ‘Look at us – we don’t use capital letters and have funny drawings! Aren’t we quirky and clever? ‘ for me. But it’s the food that really matters, so I decided to give it a go anyway.
The vegetarian selection (or ‘food without a face’ menu, as they call it) is decent compared to most pubs and restaurants. I ordered the grilled halloumi and pepper salad with sunflower seeds for my main course. It was perfectly adequate, if not thrilling. Then again, how often are you blown away by a salad?

I also had a side order of honeyed parmesan parsnips, but they paled in comparison to my dining partner’s chunky chips. Thick and fried to perfection with the skins on, they tasted, as my partner said ‘real’. He was also delighted with his ‘street meat’ sandwich, and even more delighted that the Hillhead Bookclub serves beer in dimpled mugs. It’s true – there’s something deeply satisfying about drinking out of these heavy handled glasses.
While I can’t say that I loved my meal, I’d like to go back and try their vegetarian banquet menu, which is three courses and a glass of pink lemonade for £15. Plus I enjoyed eating in their semi-outdoors alcove – it’s perfect for the wet and windy Scottish summer.
Hillhead Bookclub
17 Vinicombe Street
Glasgow
0141 576 1700
